CLIMBING
Eine lange Tradition verbindet das Campo Base mit der Welt des Kletterns und Alpinismus: Schon die Lage des Rifugio, am Fuße der Wände der Castello-Provenzale-Gruppe, ist eine Einladung, Gurt und Kletterschuhe anzuziehen und sich auf eine der hunderten Routen der Gruppe zu begeben.
Unser Hausberg bietet heute sowohl moderne als auch klassische Routen, entstanden in Jahrzehnten der Erkundung und der Besteigung seiner Gipfel: Rocca und Torre Castello, Punta Figari, Rocca Provenzale.
In diesem Abschnitt der Website möchten wir – ohne Anspruch auf Vollständigkeit – einige der bedeutendsten und beliebtesten Routen der Castello-Provenzale-Gruppe vorstellen, die alle vom Rifugio aus mit einem kurzen Zustieg erreichbar sind: 10 Minuten zu den Routen an der Rocca Provenzale, 30–40 Minuten zu denen, die am Colle Greguri beginnen.
Der Klettergarten Russet bietet den Kletterbegeisterten zudem einen weiteren Grund, das Obere Mairatal zu besuchen: 21 Seillängen von 25/30 Metern auf ausgezeichnetem Quarzit mit Schwierigkeiten von 5 bis 7b.
ROCCA CASTELLO - Normal Route
Start: Colle Greguri, 2,319 m
Length: 133 m
Grade: 3b mandatory
The easiest route to reach the summit of Rocca Castello, recommended as an introduction to alpine climbing. Useful to bring some small to medium friends to integrate the bolts present along the route.
North-West Ridge
Start: Beginning of the large west ledge
Length: 350 m
Grade: AD+, max V-
A classic-style route for the first seven pitches, then the itinerary (shared with the Sigismondi Route) is bolt-equipped. The crux is in the V- crack of the fifth pitch.
ROCCA CASTELLO - Route Sigismondi
Start: Colle Greguri, 2,319 m
Length: 135 m
Grade: AD, max III+
A classic route, with belay stations equipped and bolts at the more challenging sections. The ridge section is very exposed but offers good holds.
ROCCA CASTELLO - Route Balzola
Start: 15 meters from the Maria-Grazia Arete (SE)
Length: 260 m
Grade: D+, max IV+
Opened by Luigi Balzola and Giuseppe Marchese in 1955, this is a beautiful classic route, well bolted. Nuts and friends are useful. Eight pitches, descent by rappelling along the route.
ROCCA CASTELLO - Maria Grazie Arete
Start: 50 meters below Colle Greguri
Length: 230 m
Grade: D, 5b mandatory
The route follows the arete entirely, with a few deviations onto the east face in pitches L2/L3. Several pitons are present, to be reinforced or replaced. Descent via the Balzola route.
ROCCA CASTELLO - Route Rinaudo
Start: Base of the wall, among the rock blocks
Length: 210 m
Grade: 5a
A classic-style route, partially bolted and to be supplemented, fairly sustained with moderate difficulty.
ROCCA CASTELLO - King Line
Start: 10 meters to the left of the Rinaudo route
Length: 250 m
Grade: 5c/6a max
Protected with stainless steel bolts, seven very sustained pitches on excellent rock.
TORRE CASTELLO - Genovesi South Route
Start: Forcella Provenzale, via del Camino Est (AD+, 90 m)
Length: 210 m
Grade: TD, max V
Sustained difficulties, a super classic route fully protected with pitons, with great exposure: only for true enthusiasts of the genre.
TORRE CASTELLO - Castiglioni West Route
Length: 210 m
Grade: D+, V-
Climbed by Elvezio Bozzoli-Parasacchi, Vitale Bramani, and Ettore Castiglioni on September 10, 1936, this route climbs the entire wild west face of Torre Castello, reached via five challenging and sustained pitches.
TORRE CASTELLO - Direttissima Ribaldone
Start: Base of the crack–corner in the center of the west face
Length: 210 m
Grade: TD-, max V
Sustained difficulties, a super classic route fully protected with pitons, with great exposure: only for true enthusiasts of the genre.
TORRE CASTELLO - Placca Gedda, Arete NE
Start: Forcella Castello, 2,420 m (abseil from the Rocca)
Length: 30 m
Grade: IV
A tribute to Virgilio Gedda, first climber of the Torre using traditional means (armed only with a rope, to be exact). Not difficult but requires commitment.
TORRE CASTELLO - Castiglioni Arete (SE)
Start: Forcella Provenzale, via del Camino Est (AD+, 90 m)
Length: 200 m
Grade: 6a, 5b mandatory
A historic route, opened in 1936 by Vitale Bramani and Ettore Castiglioni, offering very exposed climbing on excellent rock. For a long time considered the most difficult rock route in the Cozie Alps.
ROCCA PROVENZALE - Bonino - Perino - Girodo - Route
Length: 420 m
Grade: 6a, 5a mandatory
Route almost entirely on cracks, equipped with bolts at all belays but along the pitches only for the first 4. The hardest sections are in the 2nd pitch (overhanging wall) and the 5th pitch (chimney crack).
ROCCA PROVENZALE - Danza Provenzale Route
Length: 200 m
Grade: 6a
A sustained and never trivial route. Bolt protection and fully equipped belays. Crux in the final pitch: a roof graded 6a, protected.
FALESIA DEI RUSSET
Upper Sector: Borotalco 6b, Sapone 6b, Kajal 6b+, Extension 7a+, Tatù 6c, Botox 6b+, Rimmel 6a, Eyeliner 6b, Glitter 6a+, Russet 6c, Piercing 6b+, Rasoio 6b, Spuma 5
Lower Sector: Lifting 6a+, Mascara 6a, Tonico 6b+, Make up 6c, Trucco e Parrucco 5, Barba e Capelli 5, Acetone 6a, Cotton Fioc 6a+
Mountain sports are potentially dangerous activities and should only be undertaken with the proper equipment and preparation. We recommend checking the weather and avalanche forecasts before setting off on a hike and/or contacting a guide for accompaniment. Campo Base S.r.l. disclaims any responsibility for the advice and itineraries provided here, which should be personally assessed based on weather and snow conditions.
For any further information on the routes of the Castello–Provenzale group, please refer to the climbing guide “Il Gruppo Castello–Provenzale” (ed. 2010) and the websites www.cuneoclimbing.it and www.gulliver.it.
The guide is available for consultation at the Rifugio.