{"id":6372,"date":"2025-04-12T14:51:02","date_gmt":"2025-04-12T12:51:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.campobaseacceglio.it\/sito\/?page_id=6372"},"modified":"2025-05-19T10:32:39","modified_gmt":"2025-05-19T08:32:39","slug":"escalade","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.campobaseacceglio.it\/sito\/fr\/escalade\/","title":{"rendered":"Escalade"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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ESCALADE<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Une longue tradition lie le Refuge Campo Base au monde de l\u2019escalade et de l\u2019alpinisme\u00a0: m\u00eame la position du Refuge, au pied des parois du groupe Castello-Provenzale est une invitation \u00e0 pr\u00e9parer le sac du mat\u00e9riel d\u2019escalade et \u00e0 partir sur une des centaines de voies du groupe.<\/p>

Notre montagne-symbole offre aujourd\u2019hui voies modernes et classiques, n\u00e9es pendant des d\u00e9cennies d\u2019exploration et de fr\u00e9quentation de ses cimes\u00a0: Rocca et Torre Castello, Punta Figari, Rocca Provenzale.<\/p>

Ici on signale, sans pr\u00e9tention d\u2019exhaustivit\u00e9, quelques voies parmi les plus importantes et appr\u00e9ci\u00e9es du groupe Castello-Provenzale, \u00e0 10 minutes \u2013 celles vers la Rocca Provenzale \u2013 ou 30\/40 minutes du Refuge \u2013 celles au d\u00e9part du Colle Greguri.<\/p>

La Falaise du Russet offre \u00e9galement aux grimpeurs 21 voies de 25\/30 m\u00e8tres sur de l\u2019excellente quartzite et difficult\u00e9s entre 5 et 7b.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - Voie Normale<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00e9part: Colle Greguri, 2.319 m<\/strong>
Longueur: 133 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: 3b obbl.<\/strong><\/div>
\u00a0<\/div>
La voie la plus facile pour atteindre le sommet de la Rocca Castello, est id\u00e9ale pour s\u2019approcher \u00e0 l\u2019escalade en montagne. Quelques friend moyens et petits peuvent \u00eatre pratiques pour int\u00e9grer les spits d\u00e9j\u00e0 pr\u00e9sents sur la voie<\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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ROCCA CASTELLO - Cr\u00eate Nord-Ouest<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00e9part: d\u00e9part de la grande corniche ouest<\/strong>
Longueur: 350 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: AD+, max V-<\/strong><\/div>
\u00a0<\/div>

Voie classique pour les premiers sept tirs, puis l\u2019itin\u00e9raire (en commune avec la voie Sigismondi) est \u00e9quip\u00e9 \u00e0 spit. Les difficult\u00e9s se concentrent dans la fissure de V- du cinqui\u00e8me tir.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - Voie Sigismondi<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00e9part: Colle Greguri, 2.319 m<\/strong>
Longueur: 135 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: AD, max III+<\/strong><\/div>
\u00a0<\/div>

Voie classique, bien \u00e9quip\u00e9e \u00e0 spit aux arr\u00eats et aux points plus difficiles. La cr\u00eate est tr\u00e8s expos\u00e9e mais avec de bonnes prises.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - Voie Balzola<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00e9part: \u00e0 15 m\u00e8tres de l\u2019ar\u00eate Maria-Grazia (SE)<\/strong>
Longueur: 260 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: D+, max IV+<\/strong><\/div>
\u00a0<\/div>

Ouverte par Luigi Balzola et Giuseppe Marchese en 1955, est une belle voie classique, bien \u00e9quip\u00e9e \u00e0 pitons. Nut et friend pratiques. Huit longueurs, descente en rappel sur la voie.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - Ar\u00eate Maria Grazia<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00e9part: 50 m\u00e8tres en aval du Colle Greguri<\/strong>
Longueur: 230 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: D, 5b obbl.<\/strong><\/div>
\u00a0<\/div>

L\u2019itin\u00e9raire suit enti\u00e8rement l\u2019arete, sauf quelques incursions sur la paroi est pendant L2\/L3. Quelque piton est pr\u00e9sent, \u00e0 int\u00e9grer et controller. Descente sur la voie Balzola.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - Voie Rinaudo<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Partenza: base della parete, tra i blocchi rocciosi<\/strong>
Sviluppo: 210 m<\/strong>
Difficolt\u00e0: 5a<\/strong><\/div>
\u00a0<\/div>

Via di stampo classico, parzialmente chiodata e da integrare, abbastanza continua su difficolt\u00e0 non eccessive.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - King Line<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00e9part: 10 m\u00e8tres \u00e0 gauche de la voie Rinaudo<\/strong><\/div>
Longueur: 250 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: 5c\/6 a max<\/strong><\/div><\/div>
\u00a0<\/div>

Proteg\u00e9e \u00e0 spit inox. Sept tirs \u00e0 difficult\u00e9 continue sur roche de tr\u00e8s bonne qualit\u00e9.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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TORRE CASTELLO - Voie Genovesi Sud<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00e9part: Forcella Provenzale, voie Camino Est (AD+, 90 m)<\/strong>
Longueur: 210 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: TD, max V<\/strong><\/div>
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Difficult\u00e9 soutenue, super-classique enti\u00e8rement \u00e0 pitons en forte exposition: uniquement pour amateur.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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TORRE CASTELLO - Voie Castiglioni Ovest<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Longueur: 210 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: D+, V-<\/strong><\/div>
\u00a0<\/div>

Ouverte par Elvezio Bozzoli-Parasacchi, Vitale Bramani, Ettore Castiglioni le 10 septembre 1936, cette voie parcourt la sauvage paroie ouest de la Torre Castello, et atteint le somment par cinq tirs exigeants et continus.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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TORRE CASTELLO - Direttissima Ribaldone<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00e9part: base du di\u00e8dre-fissure au centre de la paroie ouest<\/strong><\/div>
Longueur: 210 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: TD-, max V<\/strong><\/div><\/div>
\u00a0<\/div>

Difficult\u00e9 soutenue, voie classique \u00e0 pitons en grande exposition.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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TORRE CASTELLO - Dalle Gedda, ar\u00eate NE<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00e9part: Forcella Castello, 2420 m (en descente de la Rocca)<\/strong>
Longueur: 30 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: IV<\/strong><\/div>
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Un hommage \u00e0 Virgilio Gedda, premier escaladeur de la Torre \u00e0 moyens traditionnels (\u00e9quip\u00e9 uniquement de corde, en v\u00e9rit\u00e9). Pas difficile mais demandant un certain engagement.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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TORRE CASTELLO -Ar\u00eate Castiglioni (SE)<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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D\u00e9part: Forcella Provenzale, voie camino est (AD+, 90 m)<\/strong>
Longueur: 200 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: 6a, 5b obbl.<\/strong><\/div>
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Voie historique ouverte en 1936 par Vitale Bramani et Ettore Castiglioni qui offre une escalade bien expos\u00e9 sur excellent rochers. Pour longtemps consider\u00e9 la voie plus difficile des Alpes Cottiennes.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA PROVENZALE - Voie Bonino - Perino - Girodo<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Longueur: 420 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: 6a, 5a obbl.<\/strong><\/div>
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Voie entierement sur fissures, \u00e9quip\u00e9e \u00e0 spit aux relais et sur le premiers quatre tirs uniquement. Difficult\u00e9s majeures sur la deuxi\u00e8me (mur surplombant) et cinqui\u00e8me longueur (fissure chemin\u00e9e).<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA PROVENZALE - Voie Danza Provenzale<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Longueur: 200 m<\/strong>
Difficult\u00e9: 6a<\/strong><\/div>
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Voie continue et jamais banale, \u00e9quip\u00e9e \u00e0 spit sur les tirs et aux relais. Passage-cl\u00e9 \u00e0 la derni\u00e8re longueur, toit de 6a, bien proteg\u00e9.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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FALESIA DEI RUSSET<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Secteur haut:<\/strong> 1.Borotalco\u00a06b<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 2.Sapone\u00a06b<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 3.Kajal\u00a06b+<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 4.Extension\u00a07a+<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 5.Tat\u00f9\u00a06c<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 6.Botox\u00a06b+<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 7.Rimmel\u00a06a<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 8-Eyeliner 6b \u2013 9.Glitter\u00a06a+<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 10.Russet\u00a06c<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 11.Piercing\u00a06b+<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 12.Rasoio\u00a06b<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 13.Spuma\u00a05<\/strong><\/p>

Secteur bas:<\/strong> 14.Lifting\u00a06a+<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 15.Mascara\u00a06a<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 16.Tonico\u00a06b+<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 17.Make up\u00a06c<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 18.Trucco e Parrucco\u00a05<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 19.Barba e Capelli\u00a05<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 20.Acetone\u00a06a<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 21.Cotton Fioc\u00a06a+<\/strong><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Les sports de montagne sont des activit\u00e9s potentiellement dangereuses<\/strong> et doivent \u00eatre pratiqu\u00e9s avec un \u00e9quipement appropri\u00e9 et une bonne pr\u00e9paration. Nous vous invitons \u00e0 consulter le bulletin m\u00e9t\u00e9o et les pr\u00e9visions d’avalanches avant de partir en excursion et\/ou \u00e0 contacter un guide pour un accompagnement. Campo Base S.r.l. d\u00e9cline toute responsabilit\u00e9<\/strong> concernant les conseils et les itin\u00e9raires fournis ici, qui doivent \u00eatre \u00e9valu\u00e9s personnellement en fonction des conditions m\u00e9t\u00e9orologiques et de l’enneigement.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Pour toutes informations sur les voies du groupe Castello-Provenzale on vous invite \u00e0 consulter le livre \u00ab\u00a0Le Groupe Castello-Provenzale \u2013 Guide d\u2019alpinisme\u00a0\u00bb (ed. 2010) et les sites internet\u00a0www.cuneoclimbing.it<\/a>\u00a0e\u00a0www.gulliver.it<\/a>\u00a0. Le livre est disponible \u00e0 la consultation au Refuge.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

ESCALADE Une longue tradition lie le Refuge Campo Base au monde de l\u2019escalade et de l\u2019alpinisme\u00a0: m\u00eame la position du […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"no-sidebar","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"full-width-container","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"disabled","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"disabled","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-6372","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\nEscalade - 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