{"id":6705,"date":"2025-04-15T15:31:54","date_gmt":"2025-04-15T13:31:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.campobaseacceglio.it\/sito\/?page_id=6705"},"modified":"2025-05-08T16:03:25","modified_gmt":"2025-05-08T14:03:25","slug":"climbing","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.campobaseacceglio.it\/sito\/en\/climbing\/","title":{"rendered":"Climbing"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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CLIMBING<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Eine lange Tradition verbindet das Campo Base mit der Welt des Kletterns und Alpinismus: Schon die Lage des Rifugio, am Fu\u00dfe der W\u00e4nde der Castello-Provenzale-Gruppe, ist eine Einladung, Gurt und Kletterschuhe anzuziehen und sich auf eine der hunderten Routen der Gruppe zu begeben.<\/p>

Unser Hausberg bietet heute sowohl moderne als auch klassische Routen, entstanden in Jahrzehnten der Erkundung und der Besteigung seiner Gipfel: Rocca und Torre Castello, Punta Figari, Rocca Provenzale.<\/p>

In diesem Abschnitt der Website m\u00f6chten wir \u2013 ohne Anspruch auf Vollst\u00e4ndigkeit \u2013 einige der bedeutendsten und beliebtesten Routen der Castello-Provenzale-Gruppe vorstellen, die alle vom Rifugio aus mit einem kurzen Zustieg erreichbar sind: 10 Minuten zu den Routen an der Rocca Provenzale, 30\u201340 Minuten zu denen, die am Colle Greguri beginnen.<\/p>

Der Klettergarten Russet bietet den Kletterbegeisterten zudem einen weiteren Grund, das Obere Mairatal zu besuchen: 21 Seill\u00e4ngen von 25\/30 Metern auf ausgezeichnetem Quarzit mit Schwierigkeiten von 5 bis 7b.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - Normal Route<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: Colle Greguri, 2,319 m<\/strong>
Length: 133 m<\/strong>
Grade: 3b mandatory<\/strong><\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>

The easiest route to reach the summit of Rocca Castello<\/strong>, recommended as an introduction to alpine climbing. Useful to bring some small to medium friends to integrate the bolts present along the route.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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North-West Ridge\n<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: Beginning of the large west ledge<\/strong>
Length: 350 m<\/strong>
Grade: AD+, max V-<\/strong><\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>

A classic-style route for the first seven pitches, then the itinerary (shared with the Sigismondi Route) is bolt-equipped. The crux is in the V- crack of the fifth pitch.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - Route Sigismondi<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: Colle Greguri, 2,319 m<\/strong>
Length: 135 m<\/strong>
Grade: AD, max III+<\/strong><\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>

A classic route, with belay stations equipped and bolts at the more challenging sections. The ridge section is very exposed but offers good holds.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - Route Balzola<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: 15 meters from the Maria-Grazia Arete (SE)<\/strong>
Length: 260 m<\/strong>
Grade: D+, max IV+<\/strong><\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>

Opened by Luigi Balzola<\/strong> and Giuseppe Marchese<\/strong> in 1955, this is a beautiful classic route, well bolted. Nuts and friends are useful. Eight pitches, descent by rappelling along the route.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - Maria Grazie Arete<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: 50 meters below Colle Greguri<\/strong>
Length: 230 m<\/strong>
Grade: D, 5b mandatory<\/strong><\/p>

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The route follows the arete entirely, with a few deviations onto the east face in pitches L2\/L3. Several pitons are present, to be reinforced or replaced. Descent via the Balzola route.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - Route Rinaudo<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: Base of the wall, among the rock blocks<\/strong>
Length: 210 m<\/strong>
Grade: 5a<\/strong><\/p>

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A classic-style route, partially bolted and to be supplemented, fairly sustained with moderate difficulty.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA CASTELLO - King Line<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: 10 meters to the left of the Rinaudo route<\/strong>
Length: 250 m<\/strong>
Grade: 5c\/6a max<\/strong><\/p>

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Protected with stainless steel bolts, seven very sustained pitches on excellent rock.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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TORRE CASTELLO - Genovesi South Route<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: Forcella Provenzale, via del Camino Est (AD+, 90 m)<\/strong>
Length: 210 m<\/strong>
Grade: TD, max V<\/strong><\/p>

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Sustained difficulties, a super classic route fully protected with pitons, with great exposure: only for true enthusiasts of the genre.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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TORRE CASTELLO - Castiglioni West Route <\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Length: 210 m<\/strong>
Grade: D+, V-<\/strong><\/p>

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Climbed by Elvezio Bozzoli-Parasacchi<\/strong>, Vitale Bramani<\/strong>, and Ettore Castiglioni<\/strong> on September 10, 1936, this route climbs the entire wild west face of Torre Castello<\/strong>, reached via five challenging and sustained pitches.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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TORRE CASTELLO - Direttissima Ribaldone<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: Base of the crack\u2013corner in the center of the west face<\/strong>
Length: 210 m<\/strong>
Grade: TD-, max V<\/strong><\/p>

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Sustained difficulties, a super classic route fully protected with pitons, with great exposure: only for true enthusiasts of the genre.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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TORRE CASTELLO - Placca Gedda, Arete NE<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: Forcella Castello, 2,420 m (abseil from the Rocca)<\/strong>
Length: 30 m<\/strong>
Grade: IV<\/strong><\/p>

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A tribute to Virgilio Gedda<\/strong>, first climber of the Torre<\/strong> using traditional means (armed only with a rope, to be exact). Not difficult but requires commitment.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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TORRE CASTELLO - Castiglioni Arete (SE)<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Start: Forcella Provenzale, via del Camino Est (AD+, 90 m)<\/strong>
Length: 200 m<\/strong>
Grade: 6a, 5b mandatory<\/strong><\/p>

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A historic route, opened in 1936 by Vitale Bramani<\/strong> and Ettore Castiglioni<\/strong>, offering very exposed climbing on excellent rock. For a long time considered the most difficult rock route in the Cozie Alps.<\/p><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA PROVENZALE - Bonino - Perino - Girodo - Route<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Length: 420 m<\/strong>
Grade: 6a, 5a mandatory<\/strong><\/p>

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Route almost entirely on cracks, equipped with bolts at all belays but along the pitches only for the first 4. The hardest sections are in the 2nd pitch (overhanging wall) and the 5th pitch (chimney crack).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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ROCCA PROVENZALE - Danza Provenzale Route<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Length: 200 m<\/strong>
Grade: 6a<\/strong><\/p>

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A sustained and never trivial route. Bolt protection and fully equipped belays. Crux in the final pitch: a roof graded 6a, protected.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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FALESIA DEI RUSSET<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Upper Sector: <\/strong>Borotalco<\/strong> 6b, Sapone<\/strong> 6b, Kajal<\/strong> 6b+, Extension<\/strong> 7a+, Tat\u00f9<\/strong> 6c, Botox<\/strong> 6b+, Rimmel<\/strong> 6a, Eyeliner<\/strong> 6b, Glitter<\/strong> 6a+, Russet<\/strong> 6c, Piercing<\/strong> 6b+, Rasoio<\/strong> 6b, Spuma<\/strong> 5<\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>

Lower Sector: <\/strong>Lifting<\/strong> 6a+, Mascara<\/strong> 6a, Tonico<\/strong> 6b+, Make up<\/strong> 6c, Trucco e Parrucco<\/strong> 5, Barba e Capelli<\/strong> 5, Acetone<\/strong> 6a, Cotton Fioc<\/strong> 6a+<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Mountain sports are potentially dangerous activities<\/strong> and should only be undertaken with the proper equipment and preparation. We recommend checking the weather and avalanche forecasts before setting off on a hike and\/or contacting a guide for accompaniment. Campo Base S.r.l. disclaims any responsibility<\/strong> for the advice and itineraries provided here, which should be personally assessed based on weather and snow conditions.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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For any further information on the routes of the Castello\u2013Provenzale group, please refer to the climbing guide \u201cIl Gruppo Castello\u2013Provenzale\u201d (ed. 2010) and the websites www.cuneoclimbing.it<\/a> and www.gulliver.it<\/a>.
The guide is available for consultation at the Rifugio.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

CLIMBING Eine lange Tradition verbindet das Campo Base mit der Welt des Kletterns und Alpinismus: Schon die Lage des Rifugio, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"no-sidebar","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"full-width-container","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"disabled","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"disabled","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-6705","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\nClimbing - 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