ICE CLIMBING

Famous for rock climbing, particularly on the Castello–Provenzale group, the Upper Valle Maira also offers interesting opportunities for ice climbing. Numerous frozen waterfalls, hidden in the folds of the valleys, offer climbing routes of varying levels of commitment and difficulty for enthusiasts. In this section, without claiming to be exhaustive, we present some of the most significant icefalls.

BASSURA’S GORGE

Location: just downstream from the junction for Elva, on the right orographic side.

Base elevation of the icefall (m): 900
Icefall development (m): 70
Difficulty: TD (II, 4+)
Exposure: N

A very beautiful and aesthetic icefall, characterized by a vertical section of about twenty meters and a delicate exit. Conditions can be easily assessed from the road.

Approach: from the parking area, easily cross the Maira (10 min)

Climb:
L1. 75° wall (25m)
L2. 90° stalactite (20m)

Descent: abseil from a tree, exiting left from the candle

Location: upstream from Ponte Marmora, along the forest road on the right orographic side.

base elevation of the icefall (m): 1150
icefall development (m): 150
difficulty: AD+ (II, 3)
exposure: N

Fun icefall suitable for beginners, made up of a series of steps that do not exceed 75°. It begins with a very wide and gentle section, then narrows into a gully, and finishes with a steep wall enclosed between rocks.

Approach: take the dirt road 100 m upstream from Pont dla Cheino and follow it for about 2 km. After a downhill section, locate the icefall on the right side (20 min).

Climb:
L1. 75° wall (45m, belay on tree on the left side)
L2. Series of steps max 75° (50m, belay on tree)
L3. Easy connecting ramps (100m, belays on tree)
L4. 70° wall enclosed between rocks (50m, belay on tree)

Descent: abseil from trees if ending the climb at L2; otherwise, locate a trail on the left orographic side.

Location: on the SP 422, 300 meters downstream from the junction for Elva (Strada del Vallone).

base elevation of the icefall (m): 930
icefall development (m): 50
difficulty: TD– (I, 4)
exposure: S

This is a short icefall that descends directly to the roadside, offering very easy access. It is characterized by a stalactite drop on the second pitch.

Approach: directly from the parking area on the main road, 300 m before the junction for Elva (1 min).

Climb:
L1. Vertical wall of 8m (20m, belay on tree)
L2. Stalactite drop (30m, belay on tree)

Descent: abseil from tree.

Location: just upstream from Ponte Marmora.

base elevation of the icefall (m): 950
icefall development (m): 100
difficulty: TD (II, 4+)
exposure: S

Probably one of the most beautiful icefalls in the valley, located not far from the road, in a secluded nook of Val Maira with southern exposure. It requires a period of intense cold to find the final candle in good condition.

Approach: from the parking area, 500 m beyond Ponte Marmora, ascend through the forest until reaching the base of the icefall (10 min).

Climb:
L1. Sloped step at 75° (40m, belay on ice)
L2. The second step can be climbed on the left with a pitch featuring vertical stalactites, or crossed to the right to reach a 10 m candle at 90° (60m, belay on tree)

Descent: traverse left to a pylon and descend on foot along tracks (30 min).

Location: in the Vallone di Elva, at the level of the eighth tunnel.

base elevation of the icefall (m): 1200
icefall development (m): 100
difficulty: TD+ (II, 4+)
exposure: N

Very interesting icefall, starting with easy steps and continuing with a stalactite drop in the final section. The icefall is clearly visible from the road.

Approach: from the road, abseil into the valley from the guardrail (70m), cross the stream, and climb up to the base of the icefall. For the return, there are two options: ascend the fixed ropes left during the approach, or follow the stream downstream for about 500m until reaching a flow on the left orographic side that leads back to the road at a bridge. 30m (TD, II/4)

Climb:
L1. Sloped wall at 60/75/80° (60m, belay on ice)
L2. 90° stalactite followed by 75° slope (45m, belay on ice)

Descent: abseil from a tree, exiting left from the candle.

Location: in the Vallone di Elva.

base elevation of the icefall (m): 1200
icefall development (m): 200
difficulty: TD (III, 4)
exposure: N

A technically not difficult icefall, but one that requires good alpine experience to overcome the 120 m basal slab, where the ice is usually thin and hard to protect. The final wall is interesting and fun.

Approach: descend from the road into the valley, cross the stream, and climb up to the base of the icefall.

Climb:
L1. After climbing the initial gully, after about 20m take the left branch and reach the rock band above (50m, 60° then 70°, belay on solid root)
L2. Short 75° step and dihedral–gully (55m, 75° then 65°, belay on wedged boulder)
L3. Dihedral–gully up to the base of the final wall (40m, 70°, belay on ice)
L4. Wall (50m, 80°, belay on ice)
L5. Short step then gully (30m, 75°, belay on tree to the left)

Descent: 5 abseils from trees on the right orographic side.

Location: on the road from Ponte Marmora to Canosio/Marmora, downstream from the first avalanche barrier.

base elevation of the icefall (m): 1100
icefall development (m): 60
difficulty: TD (I, 4)
exposure: N-E

Icefall characterized by two well-defined sections which, if climbed in full, make for a complete and fairly long ascent: the first, more challenging, features an almost vertical drop with cauliflower-like ice formations; the second is a gully made up of easy steps that continue for another 300 m.

Approach: from the parking area just before the tunnel, starting directly from the road.

Climb:
L1. Climb an easy section to the base of the main drop (20m)
L2. Wall at 85–90° (40m, belay on tree to the left)
L3. Easy connecting ramps (100m, belays on tree)
L4. Wall at 80° (20m, belay on tree)
L5. Narrow gully at 60–70°

Descent: abseil from tree if ending the climb at L2; otherwise descend via slopes on the left orographic side.

Location: on the right orographic side, about 200 meters downstream from Maddalena (Prazzo).

base elevation of the icefall (m): 1100
icefall development (m): 50
difficulty: TD (II, 4)
exposure: N

Imposing icefall formed by a single drop, clearly visible from the parking area at the entrance to the hamlet of Maddalena.

Approach: exit the village of Maddalena and cross the Maira toward the evident flow (10 min).

Climb:
L1. Wall initially sloped, then steepening with a 5m section at 90° (60m, belay on tree to the left)

Descent: abseil from tree.

Location: in the gully to the right of the Cascata di Maddalena.

base elevation of the icefall (m): 1200
icefall development (m): 200
difficulty: D (III, 3)
exposure: N

Fun gully located above the hamlet of Maddalena. Initially very enclosed, it climbs several pitches at 60–70°, then opens up into 2 more vertical steps that are clearly visible from the road.

Approach: from the parking area above Maddalena, cross the Maira and climb the slopes toward the evident flow (15 min).

Climb:
L1–L5. Narrow gully with sections at 70°
L6. Wall with 2 steps including sections at 85° (50m, belay on tree)

Descent: from the top of the icefall, traverse left (orographic side) for about 200m and descend along tracks through a steep gully until you reach the cross-country ski trail.

Location: upstream from Acceglio, on the right orographic side.

base elevation of the icefall (m): 1500
icefall development (m): 250
difficulty: ED (II, 5 M6)
exposure: N

Challenging route featuring a final candle and a dry tooling section to overcome a wedged boulder that breaks the ice continuity; check the condition of the final candle from the village of Villar d’Acceglio.

Approach: from the village of Acceglio, follow the cross-country ski trail uphill until you find the access valley to the icefall, then ascend snowy slopes to the base (1h 30min).

Climb:
L1. Climb the initial 60° section, then follow the 45° slope up to the characteristic wedged boulder (80m, belays on tree and ice)
L2. Bypass the boulder on the right with dry tooling moves (8m, M6), then continue on snowy terrain (150m, 45°)
L3. 20m stalactite step followed by sloped terrain leading to the belay on the left (90°, 50m)

Descent: traverse diagonally upward until you reach a rock band, rappel from a tree anchor, then continue easily to rejoin the cross-country ski trail.

Location: on the military road, just downstream from Chialvetta (road closed in winter).

base elevation of the icefall (m): 1400
icefall development (m): 70
difficulty: TD (II, 4)
exposure: N

Fun icefall consisting of an initial drop of about 70m followed by short steps up to the end of the difficulties.

Approach: from the parking area above the village of Chialvetta, climb through the forest toward the visible flow (10 min).

Climb:
L1. Initial wall up to the base of the main drop, max 75° (20m, belay on ice)
L2. Candle at 85° (30m, belay on tree to the left)
L3–L6. Easy ramps with a maximum slope of 75° (100m, belays on tree)

Descent: abseil from tree if ending the climb at L2; otherwise descend via steep slopes on the right orographic side.

Base elevation of the icefall (m): 1800
icefall development (m): 1200
difficulty: TD (IV, 4 M5)
exposure: NE

Very long and rarely formed route, alternating frozen flows with mixed sections and snow gullies. Take into account the high avalanche risk due to the upper slopes.

Approach: from Campo Base, follow the track toward the Stroppia Icefalls; before reaching the rock bands of the waterfalls, turn left toward a prominent tower at the base of which the couloir begins (30 min).

Climb:
L1. Narrow wall (80–90°, 40m)
L2. Cone at 45°, then vertical step (90°, 25m)
L3. Short vertical step (85°, 15m), then snow gully for 200m
L4–L5. Gully (70°, 100m). After a vertical wall, climb rightward over a rocky ridge with IV/V moves, then ascend a 45° slope to reach the summit

Descent: from the summit, descend via the normal summer route of Rocca Bianca until you reach Rifugio Stroppia, and from there return to Campo Base.

Base elevation of the icefall (m): 2100
icefall development (m): 500
difficulty: D (III, 3)
exposure: E

Very long and rarely formed route in a spectacular environment, with a grand view of the Castello–Provenzale group. The route alternates frozen flows with mixed sections and snow gullies. The descent includes delicate sections, and there is a high avalanche risk due to the upper slopes.

Approach: from Campo Base, head toward Colle del Maurin. Shortly before Grange Collet, turn left toward Monte Cerello, climbing the cone up to the start of the couloir (1h30 from Campo Base).

Climb: initial section along the gully at 50° with short ice steps (200m), followed by a wall up to 70° (50m), final section along a 40° gully (250m) up to the Colle. From here, follow the ridge to reach the summit (mixed terrain, occasionally loose rock).

Descent: two descent gullies begin from the Colletto; take the one on the far right, which has gentler slopes, down to a wide plateau that curves left along the edge of the high plain overlooking Val Maira (heading in the opposite direction leads to the valley toward Chambeyron and Bivacco Barenghi). From here begins the most delicate part: descend diagonally to the right to reach Rifugio Stroppia, avoiding the rocky slabs located above the hut. From the refuge, follow the Dino Icardi trail back to Campo Base, keeping in mind that the initial section below the hut may be complex and exposed due to snow and ice on the path.

Mountain sports are potentially dangerous activities and should only be undertaken with the proper equipment and preparation. We recommend checking the weather and avalanche forecasts before setting off on a hike and/or contacting a guide for accompaniment. Campo Base S.r.l. disclaims any responsibility for the advice and itineraries provided here, which should be personally assessed based on weather and snow conditions.

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